[Ducati] Removing Crankshaft

Sun Dec 30 00:06:09 EST 2007

Very good points Rich,

and also worth noting is that merely sending the crank to anyone will not
help at all with setting end play for the crank unless you send the
crankcases as well.  Also of course, is the need to know how to properly set
up a dial indicator, what sort of dial indicator is most helpful, and the
appropriate lead hammer to use. Common error occur when the dial indicator
is the wrong type, improperly mounted, not properly oriented, all of which
lead to erroneous errors in the reading. Considering the cost of an
appropriate setup, for the person who has none of the equipment and is not
planning to do many engines, perhaps the most economical method may involve
shipping the cases and the crank to one who is properly equipped.

Peter

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich Roberts" <bigredxrunner at yahoo.com>
To: "Ducati Owners Group" <ducati at ducati.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Ducati] Removing Crankshaft

> In its most basic form end play is the amount of side to side looseness in
crank as it is held in place by the main crank bearings which are thrust
bearings, you need a little end play, too little and crank is tight in the
bearings as those bearings have all their looseness taken up by the
tightness of two halves of cases. Shims is how you get the right amount of
looseness. If you do not know how this is done you do not have a shop
manual. I am sure I have my old shop manual around here somewhere, perhaps
someone could scan and email the appropriate pages. i would not split cases
without at least some good working knowledge of how to set crank endplay. To
do so is kind of missing something good you can do while cases are apart.
Haynes I do not think is as good a substitute for factory shop manual which
actually is pretty good. Sure they waste paper in 4 languages or something.
Rich
>
> Barry <musical at interbaun.com> wrote:  Thanks Rich and Antonio for the
info. Rich I don't have dial indicators, and
> I am not sure what end play is though I have an idea from reading the
Haynes
> manual. The plan is to remove the crank and send it along with my heads
and
> pistons to Guy martin, he said he would inspect the crank for me and do a
> stage 1 with the heads. I noticed inside the case right at the top of the
> upper right front corner there are little jagged pieces of metal that are
> quite small but they don't look like a normal thing to see. I am assuming
> that the galley plug is starting to back out or like you said Rich maybe
the
> end play isn't properly set. When I rotate the crankshaft slowly it
doesn't
> look like there is anything rubbing, but maybe at higher engine speeds
> something is a little out.
>
> So I assume I have to get rid of these little pieces of jagged metal once
I
> take the crank out, but for now I will just continue the dismantling
process
> and get everything removed to be send to Guy. As far as squish, maybe that
> is part of Guy's stage 1. I would like to be taught or shown hands on with
> that procedure before I attempt it. Thanks again.
>
> Barry
>
>
> On 12/29/07 2:39 AM, "Rich Roberts" wrote:
>
> > Bunchs of us have gone down this road before. We'll help out with words
of
> > advice as the need arises. It would be good to review the procedure for
> > setting the crank, do you have dial indicators and the like and can
check
> > endplay? Lots of Duc cranks are too tight. I deburred the inside of my
cases
> > while apart, you still find bits of casting flash about the inside and
> > outside. Might want to swap out for lightened bits while at it, Falicon
or
> > others could balance lighten polish for not huge wads of cash, do rods,
> > pistons and fluywhel etc as part of that and get balanced assembly. Also
gives
> > you chance to realy set squish with base gaskets and head gasket. I use
lead
> > solder to check and then have used Cometic to make special gaskets, does
not
> > take alot of compression increase to make a better motor. I set squish
as I
> > recall to right around .040", that is about as close as you can go, I
think
> > some get down to .038" or something but even .040 is pretty close. Rich
> > Barry wrote: I own a 1998 916 and after talking to
> > Guy Martin of Brickwood perfromance,
> > and explaining the history of my bike, he said it would be in my best
> > interest to remove my crankshaft and have it inspected mainly for the
> > aluminum Galley plug which have a tendency to back out of the crank and
> > cause extreme grief.
> >
> > So I do have a fair amount of experience since I have done a engine swap
> > last year with this bike putting in the 916 engine and removing the 748
that
> > I used to have. I am close to the point of removing the engine and
splitting
> > the case. I have never gone this far before. I feel a little intimidated
but
> > I am taking it slow filming things that I feel will help me when its
time
> > for reassemble.
> >
> > My question is what can I expect going this far, will I need any other
> > special tools to remove the crank, will I run into problems doing the
> > reassemble myself. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
> >
> > Barry
> >
> >
> >
> > *****
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