[Ducati] Removing Crankshaft

[Barry]

Thanks Rich and Antonio for the info. Rich I don't have dial indicators, and
I am not sure what end play is though I have an idea from reading the Haynes
manual. The plan is to remove the crank and send it along with my heads and
pistons to Guy martin, he said he would inspect the crank for me and do a
stage 1 with the heads. I noticed inside the case right at the top of the
upper right front corner there are little jagged pieces of metal that are
quite small but they don't look like a normal thing to see. I am assuming
that the galley plug is starting to back out or like you said Rich maybe the
end play isn't properly set. When I rotate the crankshaft slowly it doesn't
look like there is anything rubbing, but maybe at higher engine speeds
something is a little out.

So I assume I have to get rid of these little pieces of jagged metal once I
take the crank out, but for now I will just continue the dismantling process
and get everything removed to be send to Guy. As far as squish, maybe that
is part of Guy's stage 1. I would like to be taught or shown hands on with
that procedure before I attempt it. Thanks again.

Barry


On 12/29/07 2:39 AM, "Rich Roberts" <bigredxrunner at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Bunchs of us have gone down this road before. We'll help out with words of
> advice as the need arises. It would be good to review the procedure for
> setting the crank, do you have dial indicators and the like and can check
> endplay? Lots of Duc cranks are too tight. I deburred the inside of my cases
> while apart, you still find bits of casting flash about the inside and
> outside. Might want to swap out for lightened bits while at it, Falicon or
> others could balance lighten polish for not huge wads of cash, do rods,
> pistons and fluywhel etc as part of that and get balanced assembly. Also gives
> you chance to realy set squish with base gaskets and head gasket. I use lead
> solder to check and then have used Cometic to make special gaskets, does not
> take alot of compression increase to make a better motor. I set squish as I
> recall to right around .040", that is about as close as you can go, I think
> some get down to .038" or something but even .040 is pretty close. Rich
> Barry <musical at interbaun.com> wrote:  I own a 1998 916 and after talking to
> Guy Martin of Brickwood perfromance,
> and explaining the history of my bike, he said it would be in my best
> interest to remove my crankshaft and have it inspected mainly for the
> aluminum Galley plug which have a tendency to back out of the crank and
> cause extreme grief.
> 
> So I do have a fair amount of experience since I have done a engine swap
> last year with this bike putting in the 916 engine and removing the 748 that
> I used to have. I am close to the point of removing the engine and splitting
> the case. I have never gone this far before. I feel a little intimidated but
> I am taking it slow filming things that I feel will help me when its time
> for reassemble.
> 
> My question is what can I expect going this far, will I need any other
> special tools to remove the crank, will I run into problems doing the
> reassemble myself. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
> 
> Barry
> 
> 
> 
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