[Ducati] 748 Throttle body adjusting - air bypass screws

[Rich Roberts]

You used air screws to set idle but a part of it....which is not exactly wrong but typically those screws for typical idle are in the 1/2 to 3/4 turn setting, not exactly the same as rear runs hotter. Did you do an idle drop procedure? I am not sure if you can do that with them both turned all the way in, with em all the way in and throttle closed not much gonna happen. I have never done it that way, I usually set em by adjusting in til you get a drop and then back off etc. Setting vacuum I used manometer, some use merc sticks, I have gauges and fittings screwed into port on left side. Buy brass hose barb fittings and replace plugs, when done put caps over fitting to plug. Also makes great place to fog top end for long term storage, something I learned from Bruce years ago. 
Anywya two turns not likely a good setting, turn in until you get a drop and then back off a msidgen, do other cyclinder and back and forth. The idea is with throttle set you need just enough air to keep a smooth idle and both of em will be set close but not exactly the same, rear likely a bit less as I recall as fuel atomizes better when hotter so need less air for good A/F ratio. Front a little cooler less atomization. I thought when I set em there was about an 1/8th turn difference.

----- Original Message ----
From: John Sheerin <jsheerin at hughes.net>
To: Ducati Owners Group <ducati at ducati.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 9:48:19 PM
Subject: [Ducati] 748 Throttle body adjusting - air bypass screws


I'm working on syncing the throttle bodies on my 748.  I checked the TPS,
adjusted the idle screw a bit to get it set at 300mV, and set the vacuum
equal with the air bypass screws all the way in.  Now I'm working on turning
the bypass screws out to set the idle.  When I started, the screws were out
about 3/4 of a turn out.  I turned them in all the way while setting vacuum
(idle speed went down).  I have them 2 turns out now.  There didn't seem to
be much difference between 1 turn and 2 turns in terms of how fast it idles.
Is there an optimum setting in there somewhere?

When turning the screws out, are you going for the same number of turns on
each and still checking to make sure vacuum is the same?  Or would you be
looking both those plus CO levels in each cylinder?  I don't have a CO
meter - I've been trying to find a local shop with one, but no luck so far.
Anyone have any tips on that?  Anyone know how to make your own CO detector?

Thanks,
John
http://ldsg.snippets.org/HORNS/



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